04 · Gear
Low-volume masks, long fins, open-cell wetsuits — what to buy first, what to rent, and how not to waste money.
The freediving gear list is short, but the logic is completely different from snorkeling or scuba: everything optimizes for oxygen economy, low drag and fit. Money-saving advice first: rent everything during your courses — the only things worth buying early are a mask and snorkel.
Choose a low-volume mask: the smaller the air space, the less of your precious lung air you spend equalizing it at depth. They sit close to the face with lenses near the eyes. Big-view snorkeling masks don’t work for depth. Prescription lenses are available if you need them.
The only buying criterion: it seals on your face. Press it on without inhaling — if it sticks by itself, it fits.
A plain J-tube is all you need. “Premium” snorkels with purge valves and splash guards are pointless — freedivers don’t even hold the snorkel during a dive; it clips to the buoy.
Long bi-fins are freediving’s signature tool, with far more propulsion than snorkeling fins. Three materials: plastic (cheap, indestructible) → fiberglass (best value) → carbon (light, expensive, fragile).
The classic beginner mistake is jumping straight to stiff carbon blades — before your leg technique settles, softer blades teach a better kick. Rent plastic or fiberglass through your courses; buy once you know your preferences.
Freediving suits usually have an open-cell interior that sticks to the skin like a suction cup — far warmer per millimeter than scuba suits, at the cost of needing lubricant (water + conditioner) to put on. Thickness by season: 3mm or less for Okinawa summer, 5mm for winter. Rent during courses.
Not sure what to buy? You’ll know after a course — you get to try different gear the whole time. Start here.